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Junkyards Near You — 91-Metro Salvage Directory

409+ salvage yards, self-service pull-a-part lots, and auto recyclers across the largest US metros — U-Pull-&-Pay, Pick Your Part, LKQ, and the local wrecking yards in between. Two ways they save you money: pull used parts yourself at 50–90% below new, or sell a dead car for cash with free towing.

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Quick Overview

409+ yards tracked across 91 metros. Self-service yards: bring tools, pay a $1–3 entry fee, pull the part — alternators $30–40, mirrors $20–35, doors $50–100, most parts 50–90% below new.

Selling a junk car: quotes run $150–500 for sedans, $500–1,500+ for trucks and SUVs, with free towing in 24–48 hours. Title required in most states — replace a lost title before you sell; it can double the offer.

91

US metros covered

409+

Salvage yards tracked

50–90%

Savings pulling your own parts

Free

Towing on most junk car sales

Junkyards by City — 91 Metro Guides

Local salvage yard directories with listings, part-pulling tips, and junk-car selling guidance for each metro area.

Fix a car you can't afford to replace

A car that needs a $600 alternator or radiator isn't dead — at a self-service yard the same part off a same-model donor car is $30–50 and many counters sell exchange warranties for a few dollars more. When money is tight, a salvage yard plus a socket set is the difference between driving to work and not. Most yards group inventory by manufacturer and post live vehicle stock online — check before you go so the donor car is actually there.

Already lost the plates or the license? License reinstatement and SR-22 guides cover getting legal again, and buy-here-pay-here lots finance people traditional dealers turn down.

Sell a junk car for cash — the honest playbook

Know the floor. Scrap quotes track steel prices and weight — a full-size sedan is worth roughly $150–350 as scrap, trucks more. Keep the catalytic converter in mind— it's often $50–300 of the quote; never sell the car minus the cat for scrap price. Quote 2–3 yards (and online cash-for-car buyers) — offers differ by hundreds. Fix the paperwork first. A replacement title turns a bill-of-sale price into a titled price. Finish clean: remove plates, cancel insurance, report the sale to the DMV, and remove your belongings — the last check under the seat is on you.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much is my junk car worth at a salvage yard?
Running cars usually sell for more privately, but a dead or wrecked car is worth its weight in steel plus valuable parts: typically $150–500 for a sedan (scaled by weight and scrap steel prices), up to $500–1,500+ for trucks, SUVs, and vans. Yards pay more for cars with intact catalytic converters (platinum/palladium inside — $50–300 of the quote), popular engines, and new-ish tires. Get quotes from 2–3 yards; offers vary by hundreds for the same car.
How does selling a car to a junkyard work?
Call or submit the car's year/make/model/condition online for a quote. If you accept, most yards tow for free within 24–48 hours and pay cash or check on pickup (title required in most states — if the title is lost, see our documents guides for replacing it). You sign the title over, remove the plates (required in most states), cancel your insurance, and notify the DMV of the sale so you're not liable for anything that happens next.
Do you need a title to sell a car to a junkyard?
In most states, yes — the title proves ownership, and reputable yards won't buy without it because the paperwork protects them. A handful of states allow older cars to be sold on a bill of sale or with a junk receipt from the DMV. If your title is lost or an old loan is still on it, request a replacement title from your state DMV first (usually $15–50 and 1–4 weeks) — it can double your offer.
Is it cheaper to pull parts yourself at a pick-your-part yard?
Dramatically — 50–90% cheaper than new parts. A side mirror that costs $200 new runs $20–35 at a self-service yard; an alternator $130 new runs $30–40 with a warranty available. You bring your own tools, pay a small entry fee ($1–3), pull the part in the yard, and pay at the counter. Full-service yards pull it for you for more money. Call ahead to check inventory — many yards post live stock online by vehicle.
What tools should I bring to a you-pull-it yard?
Bring your own tools — yards rent nothing but wheelbarrows: socket set (metric and SAE) with extensions, wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, a breaker bar for stubborn bolts, a hammer and pry bar, and a flashlight or headlamp. Wear closed shoes and gloves; bring a jack and jack stands if you're pulling underneath parts (some yards prohibit jack use under certain conditions — ask). Batteries and fluids: bring a container if you're draining anything.
Do junkyards buy cars without keys or that don't run?
Yes — non-running, keyless, wrecked, and rusted-out cars are the core of the junk car business. The yard tows it away; the car never has to run again. Not running costs you some money off the quote (usually $50–150 of towing cost factored in), but free towing is standard. Missing keys barely matter for scrap-priced cars and only matter if the yard planned to resell the car whole.

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Disclaimer: This is informational only, not legal advice. Title transfer, plate surrender, and sale-reporting rules vary by state — confirm with your DMV. Entry rules, tool policies, and part warranties vary by yard — call ahead. Listings are compiled from chain locators and OpenStreetMap as of the date above. We are not affiliated with any yard and receive nothing if you use one.